| FROM
THE PRESIDENT...
I'd like to start this message with a special "Thank
You" to all those who helped out with the last newsletter. I think it was the best
one yet, and I've heard a lot of positive comments from AMDA members. It takes a lot of
work from all of us involved, but I'd like to give Jim Kostich as well as Mikki
Ichinotsubo a special thanks. If it weren't for them, I doubt the letter would have gone
out.
On September 25-27, 1998, the Marine Aquarium Society of
Los Angeles will be hosting the Marine Aquarium Conference of North America (MACNA X).
AMDA will be having our annual meeting there as well. In this message, I hope to convince
many of you AMDA members to attend.
If it weren't for these type of conferences, AMDA may not
exist at all. I believe the concept of AMDA came about when John Tullock mentioned the
need for such an organization during the Western Marine Conference in Phoenix. For AMDA to
continue to move along with its agenda , we must have input from the general membership.
What better place to hold our meeting than with the best of the best marine aquarists at a
marine conference. If you have never been to a MACNA conference, you really don't know
what you are missing.
One of the best advantages of attending a conference such
as this is the information that you will pick up from the speakers: Martin Moe, Julian
Sprung, Bruce Carlson and Mike Paletta are just a sample of who will be speaking. I am
told there will be three full days of speakers. You will have first hand information
months before your customers can read about it in the aquarium magazines. When it comes to
being a quality marine dealer, knowledge is power. Top marine aquarium manufacturers will
also be there to show off their newest "toys". You can be the first store in
your area to carry these products, before the competition has even heard of it.
Even more important is the contacts you will undoubtedly
make during our meeting. By mingling with other AMDA members, you can share "war
stories" as well as swap information and merchandising tips with other marine fish
resources. Most of all, you will make lasting friendships with people from across the
country. I personally have been going to these conferences since MACNA 3, and the group of
friends I look forward to meeting each year could fill a small restaurant ( I think there
are a few restaurants that don't look forward to seeing us fish freaks back).
You work very hard at your business all year long. At MACNA
you can kick back, relax, and get away. In closing, I hope to see as many of you as
possible at what appears to be the biggest and best marine conference in history. I urge
you to make your reservations early to be sure to get a room. For more information,
contact your local AMDA director or write MACNA X, 1016 Burtonwood Avenue, Thousand Oaks,
CA 91360.
--- Rick Oellers ---
MY ROLE IN THE AMDA
by John Tullock
This will not be an "article" so much as an open
letter to the membership. No doubt, many of you are wondering how I happened to step down
as the executive director of this organization. There have even been a few speculative
rumors, all false. Thus, I shall take this opportunity to set the record straight.
From a personal standpoint, I became, quite simply,
"burned out" on AMDA after two years of largely solitary efforts. There is
simply too much to be accomplished for one person to manage. And while there were several
members who willingly and generously helped out, most of the decision making and major
initiatives were on my plate. I came to realize that, as long as AMDA remained what has
been called "The John Tullock Show" we could not go forward. In order to be
effective, an organization must be run by its members, not one individual.
Another factor had to do with my personal goals. I have
long been as interested in plants as in fish. In particular, I am passionate about the
native wildflowers of my home near the Smoky Mountains and the Cumberland Plateau. Many of
these plants are endangered, and I had often dreamed of being able to start a nursery that
would propagate these plants. This would enable more people to enjoy them in their
gardens, and help to protect wild populations from commercial digging. (One can hardly
help note the similarities to the captive propagation movement in the aquarium hobby.) In
October of 1997, the sale of some real estate made it possible for me to pursue this
interest. Determined to meet that goal, I advised the AMDA Board of Directors that I would
be stepping down at the end of the year.
This action was, of course, a sink-or-swim approach, and I
owe the directors an apology for dumping the organization unceremoniously in their laps. I
am sorry, folks, if I caused problems for you. At the time, I strongly felt that this was
the only way to ensure that AMDA would continue, but as a membership-based organization.
Today, if you call my office, the greeting on the machine
says "Backyard Nursery". I am pursuing my dream of working with native plants,
something I also did with marine fish, and native freshwater fish, for that matter, now
nearly thirty years ago. I have not, however, abandoned the aquarium business.
I am writing new books about aquariums, two of which will
be out soon from Barrons. I am doing research for a book on aquatic ecology issues that I
have managed to convince James Lawrence at Microcosm (publisher of my most recent title,
Natural Reef Aquariums) to consider for publication. I still keep in touch with hobbyists
and the industry via reading the volumes of correspondence I receive as a result of my
columns in Marine Fish Monthly, Freshwater and Marine Aquarium, Aquarium
Fish, Aquarium Frontiers Online, and Pet Product News. I still work part
time for Aquatic Specialists, the company I helped found with J.R. Shute in 1987. Besides
the accounting chores, I help J.R. with maintaining a web site and answering customer
questions on the phone and via email.
Nor have I abandoned AMDA. Any member is welcome to write,
call or email me at any time for any assistance you think I can provide, and I will try my
best to fulfill your wish. My phone 423-573-0373 is almost invariably answered by a
machine, but your message will receive prompt attention. Email (tullock@aquatic-specialists.com) is my
preferred means of correspondence. If you write a long letter and send it via postal mail,
please be prepared for a wait, as I receive far more letters than I can promptly answer. I
repeat, however, that I stand ready to help any AMDA member in any way that I can.
I also intend to keep AMDA and its activities at the top of
my list of regular subjects for magazine articles and for inclusion in books. I have been
pleased to note that other authors are beginning to do the same. For example, Bob
Fenners new book, The Conscientious Marine Aquarist, mentions AMDA in a
favorable light several times, and includes contact information in the Appendix. You might
want to catch my review of this book that will be posted by Aquarium Frontiers Online
(www.aquariumfrontiers.com) around the 15th
of June. This is not only a good addition to your library and your inventory, but also
elaborates on many of the issues that we regularly discuss, and which were the impetus for
founding AMDA, such as cyanide, inappropriate species, and so forth.
The publication of this, the second newsletter of 1998,
sees AMDA with a slate of interim officers efficiently carrying out the
organizations efforts despite their hectic schedules and obligations to family and
business. We are legally incorporated. We have an ongoing program of activities. We have a
well done web site, which is receiving a growing number of hits. We have a representative
in Washington, working with the MAFC. A mere nine months after I handed over the reins to
the Board, we are in pretty darn good shape. So I guess I made the right decision.
I shall continue to write an article for each subsequent
issue of this newsletter. Please let me hear from you as to topics that might be of
interest. Lacking your guidance, I plan to focus on the challenges of running a marine
aquarium business. In particular, I hope to show you how retailers in other industries
have succeeded, and how their lessons learned can be adapted to your business.
My heartfelt gratitude goes to Rick Oellers, Lance and
Mikki Ichinotsubo, Teresa Herndon, Andy Lee, Jim Kostich, and Tom White for rising to the
many challenges of transforming AMDA into a viable organization. To all the other members,
thanks for your continuing support and participation. Because of your efforts, I shall
always be proud to be remembered as the founder of AMDA. But the past, as someone once
said, is merely prologue. Let us now focus on meeting the challenges of the future as we
strive for nothing less than profound, positive improvements in our industry.
Any opinions expressed
in this newsletter - including product endorsements or critiques - are those of the
author, and may not represent the views of the AMDA as a whole.
PARTING SHOT
Editorial Comment by Jim Kostich
Its one of those concepts we were supposed to grasp
in high school Physics: the difference between potential and kinetic energy. Potential
energy is like that found in a pack of AAA batteries. We know theres energy in
there, but as long as its still sitting there blister-packed on the shelf, its
not doing anything useful. Its not until we place those batteries into the radio,
flashlight, or Walkin Talkin Drum-Beatin Mechanical Monkey that the
potential turns into kinetic energy and actually accomplishes something.
Sometimes it seems to me that organizations like the AMDA
could also be used to illustrate that difference between potential and kinetic energy. We
know theres power in the hundred or so member businesses, but we havent
managed to plug em in and put that power to good use just yet. Its as if
weve gathered up a whole case of AAA batteries, but misplaced the radio, dont
know how to open the flashlight, and darn it, theres never a Walkin
Talkin Drum-Beatin Mechanical Monkey around when you need one!
Our potential - and more importantly our kinetic - energy
is needed by the AMDA. If we are ever going to have an impact on our industry, we are
going to have to make a lot more noise, shine a lot more light, and just plain get out
there and do something. If you cant write, draw; cant draw, take pictures - or
type, man a booth, commend, complain, vote, run for office - or whatever it takes to get a
little of that potential energy turned to kinetic.
QUEEN CONCH AND RED SLIME
By Rick Oellers
One of the advantages of being a member of AMDA is the
sharing of information. When a retailer finds a product that really helps the customer
with his or her problem, everybody wins. This is the case with the Queen Conch. In our
last newsletter, Teresa Herndon from Sea Critters mentioned that she had farm raised queen
conches and it was believed that they will eat Cynobacteria or the dreaded red
slime.
How many times a week have you heard of the problem of red
slime algae from your customers and the only advice you could give was treat with an
antibiotic? Sure it may kill the slime for a while and, oh by the way, it may wipe out the
biological filter. You could try using a phosphate remover and step up the protein
skimming and it may go away on its own, in about two months.
Well, I have tried the conches in four tanks personally and
have witnessed the little buggers chowing down on Cynobacteria. Now this is what
AMDA stands for: a way for us to help the mariculture industry, help our customers so that
they dont get discouraged, and make a buck at the same time.
Speaking of problem solvers, I have been selling sally
lightfoot crabs for several years for hair algae control. Along with red legged hermits
they control just about any hair algae problems my customers have. If you arent
selling them already you might want to give them a try.
STOCKING YOUR FIRST REEF TANK
By J. Charles Delbeek
From the ATOLL, The Journal of the Marine Aquarium Society of Toronto, Volume IV
Number2 Reprinted with permission by the Author
Determining what organisms to purchase for any aquarium is
always a difficult and, all too often, frustrating task. This is predominantly due to the
fact that one knows very little about the organisms and you often end up purchasing
totally unsuitable specimens. This leads to frustration as they never do well and
eventually waste away. What I would like to do in this brief article is recommend how to
stock a first reef tank of about 150 gallons, so that your losses are minimized and you
end up with a pleasing and healthy display.
Of course this is only my own opinion and as such, is not
written as "law" Furthermore, I am assuming that you have set up the proper
filtration and lighting systems for the animals you want to keep, failure to take into
account what you want to keep BEFORE you install filtration and lighting, is in my
opinion, one of the major problems that beginners make. You must have some idea of what
you want to keep, and then design the system to suite them. If you don't do this, then you
will have problems right from the start and you will have a tough time knowing if the
problem lies with the system or the selection of animals. Finally, I am designing this
system as I would want it, that is very little Caulerpa, properly selected, cured
and arranged live rock, and the emphasis on calcareous algae such as corallines and Halimeda.
The selection and preparation of live rock is the first
step. My opinions on this can be found in Freshwater and Marine Aquarium magazine
December 1990 and Aquarium Fish Magazine November and December 1990. To summarize,
I prefer to use "reef" rock that is rock of large size and a broad flat shape
that is encrusted with coralline algae and no other macroalgae. The systems I have seen
with this type of rock are superb and dont worry, they will develop copious amounts
of macroalgae later, if that is what you want. Cure the rock (keep in a filtered aquarium
in the dark for a couple of weeks) either in the tank or a separate container and then
place it in the tank in a loose arrangement with lots of overhangs and caves. A loose
arrangement will facilitate cleaning and water movement.
Once the tank has cycled and the rock looks clean and
fresh, no white slime on it, then you can turn on the lights and start adding organisms.
The key during the whole start up process is patience! Dont rush at this point and
add all sorts of stuff or else you will be disappointed later.
The first things to add should be your "maintenance
crew", that is the scavengers, algae and detritus eaters. These organisms are
especially important if you use a substrate, i.e. they will help to keep it clean and
turned over. Under this category are brittle star starfish and detrital feeding sea
cucumbers (not sea apples!) which can be easily recognized as they have oral tentacles
designed for sweeping over the rocks and substrate. They can be seen crawling over the
substrate, using their tentacles as sweepers over the substrate. Herbivorous snails should
also be among the first additions. Species such as Astrea tecta and the well known
Turbo Grazers are especially desirable. I would also recommend that at this point you add
your first fish which should be one of the tang species, preferably the Yellow Tang, to
help control the growth of algae.
At this point you can begin to add other invertebrates.
What follows is a brief listing of soft corals that would make good first additions.
Mushroom Anemones
Various species are available in a variety of colors and varieties. Some forms do well in
lower light areas of the tank (i.e. brown varieties) while others require more light (blue
varieties). In general, they require gentle current flows, not strong and do not need to
be fed.
Star Polyps
These soft corals come in a variety of colors ranging from brown to iridescent green. They
do well in medium to strong light and if given a strong current, will rapidly spread over
rocks and glass. No feeding is required.
Leather Corals
There are many different species of corals that fall under the category of
"Leather" corals. Most belong to the genus Sarcophyton, Lobophyton
and Sinularia. Generally speaking they do well in moderate to strong lighting, and
require a good current with frequent bursts. No feeding required.
Cladiella spp.
These soft corals include the common Colt coral as well as a number of other varieties.
They do quite well in medium to strong lighting with a moderate current.
Other soft corals
There are a variety of other soft corals, most of which are very easy to keep such as
zoanthids (numerous colors and shapes, encrusting growth, moderate to strong light, some
will feed. Anthelia, large polyps with feathery tentacles, encrusting growth, moderate
lighting and moderate current; Clavularia spp., commonly called Glove Polyps, large
polyps some iridescent green in color.
Gorgonians
The majority of Caribbean gorgonians are photosynthetic and are therefore easy to keep
with minimum feeding. Most have brown or blue/purple stems, some are yellow, and all have
brown polyps. The thicker branched varieties are the easiest to keep. Some forms will grow
very quickly (inches per month) while others grow more slowly. They can be easily
propagated through cuttings and can be given supplementary feeding with live baby brine or
adult brine shrimp. I have also fed them successfully with live black worms. (M.A.S.T.
Editors note: We have included light feedings of lobster eggs (Gamma food line),
Grouper and Cod eggs by Kordon, as well as daphnia by Kordon and California Pet foods (all
frozen foods) for our gorgonians ).
If, after 6 to 12 months, your tank is doing well and you
have no microalgae problems then you can try some hard corals, However, I hesitate to
recommend them to beginners and you can have a very nice and interesting tank without
them. If you can concentrate on soft corals you should have a very stable tank that will
grow quite nicely. Eventually you can propagate many of the soft corals from cuttings.
Hard Corals
The easiest to keep hard corals are the Bubble Corals and the Euphyllia sp. Corals
(i.e. Hammer Coral, Octobubble Coral, etc). Several of the so called open brain corals (Trachyphyllia)
are quite hardy as are the Turbinaria (Plate coral) corals. Most require only
moderate lighting to do well. They will also accept feeding but these should be kept to a
minimum. For hard corals to do well you should maintain a calcium ion level of at least
420 mg/L and there should be no microalgae present in the aquarium. I definitely recommend
that you do not purchase Goniopora (Flower Pot coral, Sunflower Coral etc.). This
coral has NEVER been kept alive for extended time in hobbyists aquariums. It is the
positions of M.A.S.T. (Marine Aquarium Society of Toronto) that these corals should not be
acquired by our members. The only reasons that stores sell this species is because it
sells. If we all stop buying it then they will not be imported and these beautiful corals
can remain in the ocean where they belong.
Adding Fish. Again my feelings on adding fish can be
found in the December 1990 FAM, but I feel that the longer you can hold off addition of
fish (other than herbivores) the better the tank will develop. What follows is a list of
fish families that do well.
Damsels
Most damsels do well in a reef tank but I tend to stay away from them since, in my
opinion, they are too aggressive and most lose their colors as they grow.
Clownfish
Again, in my opinion, many clown species are not suited to reef tanks because, if they
feel at home and setup residence in an anemone they will be come territorial, especially
if they start egg laying. However, the Common Clown, Amphiprion ocellaris, is one
of the more docile species and do quite well.
Blennies
Although there are many different species of blennies only a few of them are commonly
seen. The Red Lipped Blenny is often imported from the Caribbean, but I find them much too
aggressive in reef tanks, in nature they are extremely territorial too. The Bicolor blenny
is the other common blenny seen in stores. As with most blennies, they are microalgae
feeders but they are not adverse to nipping at coral polyps and Tridacna clams.
This may be a reflection of a lack of other suitable food stuffs in the tank but
nevertheless, they will nip off polyps.
Pseudochromidae
Dwarf Basslets are quite common and most are suitable for reef tanks but one per tank is
the usual rule, unless you are prepared to lose several before you get a stable population
of them. Some of them can become aggressive as they get larger (max. 10 cm). These should
be amongst the last fish added so that they will not pick on new additions to the tank.
Pygmy Angels
Most pygmy angel species are suitable but there is a great deal of individuality within a
species and some may bother corals and macroalgae and some wont.
Gobies
Just about all gobies are suitable and will do very well.
Butterfly Fish
The common belief is that butterfly fish cannot be put in reef tanks. This is true for
most species but there are some exceptions and both Longnose and Copperband butterflys
have been kept successfully with corals. The only losses were with small fanworms that one
usually finds growing profusely in older tanks. Heniochious spp. may also be
suitable but they should be watched closely.
Tangs
There are a wide variety of tanks and surgeons that can be easily kept in reef tanks as
long as they are not the larger growing species.
Dragonettes
The Mandarin and Psychedelic Fish and Scooter Fish are amongst the common dragonetts
available. They either do very well or waste away. This seems to be a reflection of
collecting practices and lack of nutrition. Even with all I have said, if you dont
purchase healthy specimens to begin with, you will have problems.
Check to make sure that corals have no damaged areas and
are fully extended. Also check for any hitchhikers on the rock, like nudabranches, snails
and bristleworms that may damage other specimens in the tank.
About the author: J. Charles Delbeek currently is
on the staff of the Waikiki Aquarium in Honolulu, under the directorship of Dr. Bruce
Carlson. Charles is a frequent speaker at the MACNA conferences, as well as the Western
Marine Conferences and the noted co-author (with Julian Sprung) of the two popular reef
volumes The Reef Aquarium Volume I and The Reef Aquarium Volume II. |
|
In
this issue:
- From the President.. John Oellers
- Annual Meeting Notice
- B-REEF NOTES: Association News
- My Role in the AMDA, by John Tullock
- Stocking Your First Reef, by Charles Delbeek
- Parting Shot, by Jim Kostich
- Propagating Seahorses
- Butterflyfishes
- Tracking Losses
B-REEF NOTES
by Mikki Ichinotsubo
Treasurers Report as of June 02
Well, at long last, I am so very pleased to announce that we have a working checking
account. All of you new and renewing members, whose checks were in "limbo" for
so many months, will now see your checks clearing your accounts. We graciously thank you
for your patience during these changing times. I am in the process of setting up the
"Accounts Receivable" and the "Accounts Payable" spreadsheets. Next
quarter's report will be even more illuminating. The Treasurer's Report will be a part of
the General Membership meeting, that will be held in Long Beach, during the MACNA X.
Delinquent Dues Notice: All members whose dues are
not brought current by August 1, 1998 will have their membership in AMDA suspended and
their listing in our Web page will be removed. All suspended members should not profess to
be AMDA members if their dues are not current. All current members and previous members
will be welcome at the General Membership meeting at MACNA X in September, but only those
members whose dues are current will be allowed to vote. We offer our apologies to all
members for not sending dues notices before May 1998. Those notices have now been sent,
however, and it is time for all of us to get with the program and remember what AMDA is
all about, what we stand for and bring our dues current! We thank you for your support!
The annual World Wide Pet Association trade show is
being held in Long Beach, July 10, 11 & 12, 1998. They have graciously provided us
with a booth at no charge. This is the largest pet trade show on the West Coast. We will
have the opportunity to introduce AMDA to those who are not familiar with our philosophies
in an arena that will provide AMDA with exposure to the different levels of the pet trade
industry. We hope the AMDA members that will be attending the show will stop by the booth
to sign our guest book and say "hello". It is such a rare opportunity to meet
our colleagues in person and make new friends as well. Also noteworthy: Jim Stime of the
Marine Aquarium Society of Los Angeles, the host for MACNA X, has requested to share our
booth with us, in order to help promote the conference. Brochures will be handed out and
we'll be able to let the trade show attendees become aware of the country's largest annual
marine conference. I have received the big OK from the WWPSA officials, so, we'll be
having lots of fun! Please stop by Booth #2132 B, or better yet, mention our endeavors and
goals to other "quality and responsibly oriented" professionals to stop by our
booth and join up. AMDA is the wave of the marinelife industry's future!
General Membership Meeting to be held at the MACNA X
September 1998! What a meeting we have planned for this year! The agenda is full of
exciting events, such as Officers Elections, the proposed Skills Recognition Test, a
proposed Standards of Practice list, The Green Label Project, and other pertinent issues
that must be addressed to insure the continuation and growth of AMDA. Our President, Rick
Oellers, will conduct the meeting. Rick and the other officers are preparing a written
agenda that will be handed out to all meeting attendees and Roberts Rules of Order
will be the protocol for the entire meeting. We have a lot of criteria to cover in just 2
hours; we must be expedient! The meeting is planned for Friday morning, September 25,
1998, from 8 a.m. to 10 a.m. The meeting will be in either the Barcelona Room or the Casa
Blanca Room on the 3rd floor where the conference is being held. We will have coffee
available.
Do expect Proxy Notices to come to you in the mail
by August 1st, 1998. If you are not able to attend the meeting, please vote by proxy. It
is important that you are represented! You will need to pick an officer to do your voting
for you. Please feel free to communicate with the officer or director of your choice,
reach a level of comfort and give your proxy to him or her. (America: Isn't it great?)!
See you at MACNA X!
MEMBERS" QUESTIONNAIRE
RESPONSE VERY SLOW
In the spring issue of the AMDA newsletter, there is a
questionnaire that the Directors have designed for the members to fill out, cut out and
send back to any Regional Director or the main office in Las Vegas. We are reporting that
one and only one has filled his out and returned it. Congratulations Randy Fernley, of
Coral Fish Hawaii for your quick and professional response!
All of you members who want to know just what it is that
AMDA is going to do for you, remember that changes cannot be made without data! These
questionnaires are one of the few methods that we have to determine how to shape the
future of our industry! If we are to know how you perceive your position in the marinelife
industry, what your frustrations are and where you would like to see improvements, you
must be willing to cooperate and participate.
AMDA can only succeed with a willing membership and active
participation! You want your voice to be heard? This is your opportunity! Please send in
your questionnaires!
AMDA HANDOUTS
The American Marinelife Dealers Association offers a number
of consumer handouts for distribution by its members. Any current AMDA member may freely
copy and distribute these articles as part of AMDAs ongoing commitment to education.
The following handouts are currently available:
- Clownfish Host Anemones by John H. Tullock.
Trying to find just the right anemone to go with your favorite clownfish? - or vice versa?
This article lists and briefly describes nine species of anemones (bulb, long tentacle,
purple long tentacle, sebae, beaded, ritteri, giant carpet, saddle and Merten's carpet),
in order of their hardiness in aquaria, and details which species of clownfish are most
likely to be hosted by each. Includes tips on care and handling.
- Essentials of Aquarium Chemistry 1: pH and
Alkalinity by John H. Tullock. John Tullock walks us through an explanation of pH and
alkalinity in saltwater aquariums. Also addresses a number of other commonly seen terms,
including neutralization reaction, carbonate hardness, molarity, equivalents, buffer,
buffering capacity and dKH.
- Essentials of Aquarium Chemistry 2: Calcium
by John H. Tullock. Explains the importance and benefits of the addition of calcium to
reef aquaria and instructs the hobbyist on how to prepare and administer limewater
solutions.
- Cycling the Tank by John H. Tullock. A
step-by-step method to cycle a new tank inorganically (without risking the health or lives
of any livestock). Includes tips on when to test for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH, and
what the results of those tests should mean to the hobbyist.
- Parasite Problems by John H. Tullock. A
discussion of the symptoms and treatment of the two common saltwater parasites, Cryptocaryon
and Amyloodinium. Includes symptoms, instructions for the proper use of copper
medications, and signs (and false signs) of cure.
- Water Quality Measurement by John H.
Tullock. A list of target values for temperature, specific gravity, pH, alkalinity,
ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, calcium, dissolved oxygen carbon dioxide and iron
for marine aquariums. Includes notes about some specific tests and a seven point section
on "Good Lab Procedure".
- Algae Control in the Marine Aquarium by
John H. Tullock. How to keep the various varieties of undesirable algae from overtaking
the saltwater aquarium.
- Stocking Your First Reef Tank by J. Charles
Delbeek. Which animals to add first to a newly set up reef aquarium.
Master copies of these excellent articles are available on
the website, or through the AMDA business office.
BUTTERFLYFISHES
By Robert M. Martino
The Marine Scene
Butterflyfishes are some of the most beautiful and most
difficult marine fish to keep. There are 114 species of butterflyfishes divided into 10
genera. Not all of these species do well in captivity, and some have special needs to be
met to do well. Through the years I have gathered data on the species that best adapt to
captivity and what each species specific needs are. The data includes what foods first
trigger a feeding response in butterflies, what foods are needed to keep butterflies
healthy, and what cures are best for the common diseases of butterflies. Over the next few
issues I will share what the data shows to be the most successful of each of the major
butterfly species found in the trade.
First I will go over some general guidelines for the care
of butterflies. There are a few needs that must be met to have any success with
butterflies. The first is to establish an environment in which the butterflies will be
comfortable. In order to do well in captivity, butterflies need to feel safe in their
environment. The butterflyfishes are almost exclusively found around coral or rocky
habitats. A similar environment is important to keep a butterfly in an aquarium for any
length of time. A tank with lots of rocks and old coral skeletons to hide and pick at will
greatly decrease a butterflyfishs stress level. A decrease in the fishs stress
level will greatly improve the fishs health.
Butterflies are primarily found on the reef flat and the
reef slope to 30 meters. This is an area of high currents and well oxygenated water.
Adding a powerhead to the tank to increase water flow will decrease a butterflies
mortality due to "Ich" and other parasites. The second need of butterflies is to
get them to eat. The biggest reason for the butterflies reluctance to eat is because most
species are adapted to eating sessile invertebrates, such as sponges, corals, and
tunicates. When butterflies are fed in a tank, its food is normally floating in the tank
in the form of various dried flakes and frozen foods. These foods fail to elicit a feeding
response. However, butterflies can often be induced to eat if their food is offered on the
bottom of the tank tied to a decoration.
Butterflies can be divided into three categories in regards
to feeding: the obligate coral eaters, the facultative coral eaters, and the non-coral
eaters. The last two categories are the important ones to the aquarium trade. Obligate
coral eaters are subdivided into specialists (those that eat one species of coral) and
generalists (those that eat only corals but have no preference in coral species).
Obligates do not do well in captivity because they will not survive without corals being a
part of their diet. Facultative coral eaters consume corals as part of their diet but are
not dependent on them as a source of food. Most of the species available to the trade fall
into this category. The last category is the non-coral eaters which are primarily made up
of planktivores. There are fewer of these species, but they are sold in the aquarium
trade.
In nature, butterflies feed on a wide variety of sessile
and motile invertebrates. To get a balanced diet in the aquarium requires that we dealers
get the butterfly to eat as wide a variety of food as possible. Some foods that I found to
be important in the long term health of butterflies are frozen foods such as Angel Formula
and Sea Worm Supreme, used in combination with Nori algae. These two products contain a
wide variety of invertebrates that are important mainstays for their natural diet. Some of
these important ingredients are sponges, mussels, sea worms, and algae.
Suggested Reading:
Fenner, Robert M. 1998. The Conscientious Marine Aquarist. Microcosm, Shelburne, Vermont.
Sale, Peter F. 1991. The Ecology of Reef Fishes on Coral Reefs.
TRACKING LOSSES
A First Step Toward More Responsible Marinelife Management
by Jim Kostich
Minimizing marine livestock losses is not only a matter of
economics, but of ethics as well. But to reduce casualties, its crucial to first
identify them and their causes. Such a vital task would seem too important to leave to
guesswork or gut feeling; we need real data, and the willingness to let that data speak
for itself. Tracking livestock losses, while a painstaking and somewhat disconcerting
process, provides us with that data, and might even open our eyes to better solutions.
Tracking losses amounts to little more than book-keeping,
and various techniques might be employed to gather data. Perhaps the most intriguing
method of record-keeping Ive heard of is that of setting up a dummy account for lost
fish right on the cash register. When an employee removes any dead saltwater fish from a
tank, he actually rings the item up just as if it were sold, although no money changes
hands, and the "proceeds" are not added to the days sales. This of course
requires the use of a high-tech, Point-of-Sale computerized cash register, but the
possibilities for data collection could be endless. Depending on how well the stock was
entered into the system on arrival, the computer could track losses by source, country of
origin, aquarium housed in, arrival date or almost any other factor.
Of course, tracking losses need not be done in such a
sophisticated manner. Over the past few years, Ive made a serious attempt at
record-keeping by leaving a simple notebook next to the cash register nearest the
saltwater section of the store. When a lost fish is removed from an aquarium, the employee
makes a notation in the book, or better yet, attaches the label from the animal to the
notebook page. Other records, such as maintenance, chemical testing and treatments used,
are kept in the book as well.
While this method of record-keeping certainly wasnt
error-free, it wasnt long before I could begin to spot trends. For starters, I was
shocked by the number of times certain "hardy" fish - that I had always assumed
were being sold by other employees - showed up in the book. Likewise, fish from certain
sources or countries of origin made too many appearances on my list - again contrary to
some of my preconceived notions. The records even helped to determine whether our
maintenance procedures like water changing and filter cleaning reduced or increased the
number of mortalities.
As more and more data is collected, the second step to
reducing losses - changing species stocked, sources and procedures - becomes clearer and
better defined. And with a little effort, tracking losses might get easier and easier,
with fewer and fewer losses to track.
AMDA
Annual Meeting
Election of Officers
September 25, 1998
8 A.M. - 10 A. M.
MACNA Convention
Los Angeles, CA |